1.
Nigel Gosling, Paris 1900-1914: The Miraculous Years. London: 1978, p. 124.

2.
Gertrude Stein, Paris, France. New York: 1970, pp. 11-12.

3.
Billy Kluver and Julie Martin, Kiki's Paris. New York: 1989, p. 134.

4.
Elizabeth Ann Coleman, The Opulent Era: Fashions of Worth, Doucet, and Pingat. Brooklyn: 1989, pp. 22, 90-94.

5.
Paul Poiret, En Habillant l'époque. Paris: 1930, p. 7.

6.
Ibid., p. 93.

7.
André Dunoyer de Segonzac, "Preface," in Palmer White, Poiret. London: 1973, p. 10.

8.
Nancy J. Troy, Modernism and the Decorative Arts in France, Art Nouveau to Le Corbusier. New Haven: 1991, p. 252, n. 50.

9.
Yvonne Deslandres, Poiret: Paul Poiret 1879-1944. New York: 1987, p. 50.

10.
René Simon Lévy, The Fabrics of Raoul Dufy: Genesis and Context. London: 1983, p. 98.

11.
Isadora Duncan, My Life. New York: 1927, p. 246.

12.
Martin Battersby, Art Deco Fashion: French Designers 1908-1925. London: 1974, p. 50.

13.
Gazette du Bon Ton: Art, Mode, et Frivolités, no. 1 (1912), pp. 3-4.

14.
Elsa Schiaparelli, Shocking Life. London: 1954, p. 90.

15.
Roger Shattuck, The Banquet Years: The Origins of the Avant-Garde in France, 1885 to World War I. New York: 1968 (rev. ed.), pp. 168-69.

16.
François Chapon, Jacques Doucet ou l'art du mécénat 1853-1929. Nouvelle édition revue et corrigée. Paris: 1996, pp. 293-94.

17.
Musée Historique des Tissus, Paquin: une retrospective de 60 ans de haute couture. Lyon: 1989, pp. 88-89.

18.
Ibid., p. 82.

19.
Guillaume Garnier, Paul Poiret et Nicole Groult: maîtres de la mode art deco. Paris: 1985, p. 120.

20.
Ibid., pp. 120-21.

21.
Ibid., p. 120.

22.
Guillaume Garnier, Paris couture: les années trente. Paris: 1987, pp. 247-48.

23.
Betty Kirke, Madeleine Vionnet. New York: 1998, p. 58.

24.
Ibid., p. 137.

25.
Mercure de France (January 1, 1914), quoted in Jacques Damase, Sonia Delaunay: mode et tissus imprimés. Paris: 1991, p. 112.

26.
Angela Völker, Textiles of the Wiener Werkstätte, 1910-1932. New York: 1994, p. 47.

27.
See Troy, op. cit., pp. 79-96, for a discussion of the coloristes and the Maison Cubiste.

28.
Kirke, op. cit., pp. 34-35.

29.
The following has been summarized from Kenneth E. Silver, Esprit de Corps: The Art of the Parisian Avant-Garde and the First World War, 1914-1925. Princeton: 1989, pp. 167-85.

30.
Ibid., p. 169.

31.
Ibid., p. 184.

32.
Valerie Steele, Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. New York: 1988, p. 247.

33.
Anne Hollander, Seeing Through Clothes. New York: 1980, pp. 312, 314.

34.
Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design, Dynamic Symmetry. Providence: 1961, passim.

35.
Kirke, op. cit., pp. 116-17.

36.
Ibid., p. 117.

37.
Steele, op. cit., p. 246.

38.
Richard Martin, ed., Contemporary Fashion. New York: 1995, p. 364.

39.
Quoted in Madelyn Shaw, "Mainbocher," unpublished typescript, 1994 (courtesy the author).

40.
Schiaparelli, op cit., p. 64.

41.
Ibid., p. 65.

42.
Richard Martin, Fashion and Surrealism. New York: 1987, p. 56; Palmer White, Elsa Schiaparelli: Empress of Paris Fashion. New York: 1986, pp. 170-71; Schiaparelli, op.cit., passim.

43.
Vogue, vol. 61, no. 1 (January 1, 1923), p. 122.

44.
Raymond Loewy, Industrial Design. Woodstock (New York): 1988, pp. 74-76; one of several charts illustrating style changes in objects from trains to telephones.