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It is often thought that the Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et
Industriels Modernes of 1925 popularized "moderne" design in America,
but textiles in the Tirocchi shop belie this notion. Several modernist
designs are documented in the pre-1920s inventory and others can be dated
to well before 1925. The early modern design vocabulary had become known
in this country first through posters, magazine illustrations, the decorative
arts, and other media, and subsequently through painting and sculpture,
which were largely seen for the first time at the Armory Show in New York
in 1913. An examination of American textile samples from as early as 1910
by just one American manufacturer shows that modernism had already arrived
in fabric produced for the mass market. In December 1910, at the very
time that Paul Poiret and Charles Bianchini were adopting the "moderne"
rose, the Arnold Printworks of North Adams, Massachusetts, was producing
nearly seventy-five thousand yards of a roller print on scrim for curtains
with the same flower [fig. 203]. Other stylized florals were also popular,
perhaps based on Wiener Werkstätte textiles. That American printworks
knew about avant-garde European textile design is certain. Many mills
subscribed to pattern services. Claude Frères of Lyon supplied
silk and woolen swatches on a monthly basis (many are preserved in the
collection of the RISD Museum) to many manufacturers, including Arnold
Printworks and the Empire Silk Company in Paterson, New Jersey. Publications
such as Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and the American Silk
Journal also kept American manufacturers abreast of European design.
The skill with which Anna and Laura Tirocchi melded their taste with
the already prevailing sense of the modern illustrates once again the
reason for the survival of their business beyond the life of many other
dressmaking establishments. Just as Anna Tirocchi took advantage of the
changeover to ready-to-wear clothing by embracing it, she also adopted
modernist French textiles as the basis for her custom trade, which she
was able to continue well into the 1930s, although on a declining basis,
until she was too old and too ill to sew. The last textiles in the Tirocchi
shop date from the early 1940s. Silk and woolen samples, printed rayon
textiles, zippers, and a few design folders advertising wartime production
constitute a remarkable resource for this period, even as the Tirocchi
shop closed and the objects in it were tucked away for posterity.
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