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Among the first women's ready-to-wear garments, dating to the early nineteenth
century, were coats, cloaks, and mantles, which did not rely on close
fit. By the mid-nineteenth century, European and American ready-made manufacturers
were seeking Paris cachet. The tradition of Paris fashion sold abroad
through models was easily adapted to the developing ready-to-wear trade.
The emergence and success of this industry was recognized in the French
jury report for the Exposition Universelle of 1855. With true Gallic pride
in their fashion superiority, the French jury claimed, "Women's ready-to-wear
is done everywhere today,...but everywhere they work after Parisian designs
or models, and foreign manufacturers know very well we have no interest
in their sending us their products, more or less happily copied from ours."(26)
As the early twentieth century progressed, concerns like the Harry Angelo
Company, Maginnis &Thomas Importers, and H. J. Gross Company, Inc., began
to offer more ready-to-wear, capitalizing on their Parisian connections.
Some companies, like Harry Angelo, grew to specialize in the import of
French ready-made goods, while others, like Maginnis & Thomas, gradually
developed into manufacturers and made and sold copies of French models.
Within the French fashion establishment, some of the young designers -
among them Jean Patou and Lucien Lelong - catered to this growing and
important aspect of their trade and helped to usher in the new era of
couture after World War I. Subordinating the art of dressmaking to the
business of fashion, Patou took advantage of the increasing use of advertising
to market his gowns; he offered them at low prices; and he organized his
shop like an assembly line. Lelong did the same. He was interested in
the scientific management of his business and discouraged the usual adjustments
and alterations to his models requested by clients, so that his shop could
maintain peak efficiency.(27) Lelong and especially Patou were popular with the
Seventh Avenue New York manufacturers. The Frenchmen's economical use
of fabric and their attempts to streamline the manufacturing process were
goals Americans could appreciate.
Oddly enough, Anna's clients occasionally requested that ready-made garments
be copied for them. There are probably a number of reasons for this. Many
of Anna's older clients would have been accustomed to having more creative
input into the choice of fabric, trim, cut, and fit. If not satisfied
with a ready-made's fabric or sleeve shape, the customer could easily
have Anna duplicate the overall style while adjusting the particulars
to the individual. The Tirocchi "merchandise received and returned" ledgers
record that on September 2, 1927, Anna ordered from Maginnis &Thomas a
Jean Patou transparent black velvet evening dress trimmed with a rhinestone
buckle. The ledger notes that the gown was copied for Mrs. William Hoffman
in the original transparent black velvet, a shiny thin fabric made of
rayon,(28)
and for Mrs. A. Burns Smythe in a more traditional black silk velvet.
A few days earlier, on August 31, Anna had received a black georgette
dress trimmed with velvet to be worn with a peach-colored vestee with
rhinestone buttons from A. Traina. Before the dress was sold to Mrs. H.
S. Lampher, it was copied in blue for Mrs. Charles MacKinney.(29)
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