|   
			 The effects of ready-to-wear clothing on the Tirocchis business 
			  were dramatic. By the early 1920s, Anna realized that she could 
			  not compete, as a purely custom dressmaker, with the convenience 
			  of the new ready-made garments. By the mid-1920s, she had converted 
			  her shop from a custom dressmaking establishment, where client and 
			  dressmaker worked together to create clothing expressive of an individual 
			  style, to a retail establishment offering high-end ready-to-wear. 
			  The sisters still offered the traditional seamstress services of 
			  alterations and repairs to their customers, something department 
			  stores could not offer except at the time a garment was purchased. 
			  In addition, the Tirocchis designed custom-made bridal and bridesmaids 
			  dresses and did a nice business outfitting entire wedding parties. 
			Until 1924, ready-mades had made up a small percentage of the business, 
			  ranging from no sales, to about 5% for that year. However, it appears 
			  in the fall of 1923, Anna was forced to confront the fact that since 
			  1915, when the sisters moved into 514 Broadway, business had gone 
			  into a steady decline. Each year following saw a decrease in the 
			  number of client transactions, from a total of 490 in 1916, to 281 
			  in 1923. 
			 The 
			  new department stores wanted the business of the general consumer, 
			  but they also catered to women of wealth by offering high-quality 
			  and high-fashion dresses in lavish corners of the store that echoed 
			  the homes and clubs to which these women were accustomed. Small 
			  specialty shops arose to attract the same clientele. Both types 
			  of establishments offered alteration services and some custom dressmaking 
			  to meet customers demands, but neither could offer the craftsmanship 
			  the Tirocchis could. 
			Anna Tirocchi had never aspired to serve the general public. Indeed, 
			  according to her niece Primrose, she turned away potential customers 
			  who "did not appreciate what she was doing." Nevertheless, she was 
			  alarmed when she realized that the new department and specialty 
			  retail stores were enticing her clientele.  
			Madame Tirocchis solution was to begin to offer her clients 
			  a wide range of ready-made garments and accessories. In the Spring 
			  of 1924, her investment in ready-mades increased significantly when 
			  she brought back from a buying trip to Paris 23 dresses, seven knit 
			  sport suits, two coats, and five blouses. From American importers 
			  and manufacturers, she bought 158 dresses. 
			The vendors, importers, and manufacturers whom Anna patronized 
			  specialized in what was called "wholesale couture," which 
			  was suitable to the Tirocchis discriminating clientele. Women 
			  throughout the world looked to Paris for the latest styles, so manufacturers 
			  sent buyers to Paris at least twice a year to buy, or steal, garments 
			  that were then copied with slight alterations to suit the more practical, 
			  less formal American tastes. The French copies were then marketed 
			  to American retailers, such as the Tirocchi sisters and their clients. 
			If the Tirocchi clients coveted and collected the highest quality 
			  French fashions, they also demanded the best in textiles. Whether 
			  their dresses were custom-made or purchased ready-to-wear, the clientele 
			  favored the finest French textiles. French couture had the allure 
			  of Paris, with all the status that called to mind, but French textiles 
			  were valued in America for the long-standing French reputation for 
			  quality and good design. Madame Tirocchis flawless eye enabled 
			  her to purchase the most luxurious and beautifully designed French 
			  fabrics she could find for her discriminating clientele. Just as 
			  Anna Tirocchi took advantage of the changeover to ready-to-wear 
			  clothing by embracing it, she also adopted French textiles with 
			  the latest modernist designs as the basis for her custom trade. 
			Anna also began offering her customers a range of accessories and 
			  fine linens. She sold handbags, scarves, shawls, jewelry, lingerie, 
			  boas, and feathers. The business began to flourish once again. By 
			  1927, customer billings were triple what they were in 1923, going 
			  from $22,706 to $62,221. The shift in tactic made the difference. 
			  Madame Tirocchi was doing less custom work, but the shop was still 
			  surviving as a small dressmaking establishment at a time when most 
			  dressmakers were closing their doors. 
			 
			
					^back to 
						top
						 
              >> read on about  The 
              Last Days of the Business    
           |